Back on Track, Hopefully

I do believe I may be back on track to getting back into shape. It has been about two months since I started climbing again. I decided to just climb through the tendinitis and be super careful. I have been feeling better and better and more psyched than ever. This weekend, I wanted to get back up to the Matron area in Eldo. Last year Ryan Silvan and I started working on what was a project in the on line guide. We figured out the beta and began to put it together. Ryan was able to do it that day and called it "Fake Empire" and weighed it in at about V9/10. The next day, the area closed due to a Raptor Closer. Super fun compression prow/ arete. The boulder sort of sits up on a ledge and the start of the problem is down in a pit, very Huecoish. A hard heel hook is very necessary to hit a left hand slot that is super awkward. Heal hooks and toe hooks get you to the sloping lip that trends left and then you heel hook to pull yourself through a three boulder slot. I thought it was one of the coolest problems I have done in a while. I like problems that have really unique moves no matter how tall or small they may be. If the rock is good, then it's worth the effort.

Today, I went up to Clear Creek to finish off "Recession Proof". Some folks think that the problem is a "turd", but they should only climb the five star problems and leave the garbage to us weak asses. Why do some people climb something and then report that it was stupid or too small or something negative. I can understand if downgrading needs to happen if there is a general consensus. I typically look at a problem and decide weather or not I'm psyched to climb it or not. I tend to not get on something that doesn't look fun, duh. I think the problem is super cool. It lays down in the creek below the Primo Wall. The rock is super good with crimps, heel hooks, slopers, compression moves and big throws. Joe V. FA'd this fun problem last winter. I went down there early so that the rock was still cold. I warmed up and sent on my third try. Joe gave the problem 10 points, but some are saying it is more like 9. I think it is a hard 9 if that is the case. I have tried the problem two other days, three total. It had been pretty warm on my earlier attempts, but today, the temps were pretty nice. I guess if it were 50 degrees or so, it would be easier and worthy of a 9er. I guess I am just a bad judge of grades since I have only really started to try and climb harder again in the past couple of weeks. What ever the lame grade, the problem is really fun in my opinion which means nothing.