A super good friend's passing.

Darrin, Eric, Bill in Yosemite.
Bill on "Ship Wreck", Joshua Tree.

Bill, always the safest guy.

I would not be here climbing if it wasn't for Bill Burges. About 14 years ago, a good friend that I grew up with, Darrin Steiff, started climbing with this really nice guy Bill. They were going to Joshua Tree every weekend. Darrin and I grew up surfing the Ventura coast and climbing was the last thing on our minds. One day, Darrin and his wife Christy, asked if I wanted to go to Stoney Point to go climbing. I finally broke down and went. Bill had been teaching Darrin how to place gear and build anchors. I saw that Darrin was really having a lot of fun doing something different. I ended up buying a pair of shoes and started going to J-Tree with Darrin and Bill. I was living in Manhattan Beach at the time and Bill lived about 15 minutes from me. Darrin lived about an hour away and would meet Bill and I in J-Tree or where ever we decided to go.

Darrin, Bill and I were mostly trad climbing at that time and bouldered every once in a great while. I started climbing almost every weekend with these guys and really became addicted really fast. Bill and I had many epics on our adventures. Those were the days of getting off a multi pitch route in the dark and trying to find our way through the dark back to the truck. So many memories, so many stories. One in particular comes to mind; Bill and I were in the Valley and he wanted to do "Braille Book". I think it was like a 6 or 8 pitch 5.8. We got up the base of the climb way too early in my mind. We took off trading leads and only had small Gatorade bottles hanging off our harnesses. There was a party of three that were moving much faster than we were coming up from behind. The leader had done this route before and asked if they could pass. We said, not a problem and then proceeded to wait for far too long. By the time the party of three finally got far enough past us, we were blazing in the sun and almost out of water. On the next pitch, I was fallowing and could not get out a cam that Bill had placed, so I left it not knowing what to do. When I got to the next belay station, I had told Bill and he wasn't even pissed. He had to rappel down to clean the piece I had left. I think we still had like 5 pitches to go. Once the other party got far enough along, I began to lead the next pitch. As I got closer to the next belay ledge, the two followers were sitting were I needed to get to so I could set up and anchor. I waited while stemming for at leased 30 minutes or so. Bill started tugging on the rope because he had been waiting wondering what the hell was going on. I managed to slide my ass between the two followers and set up an anchor. By the time Bill climbed up to me, the other party were off and running. The next pitch was an off width that spooked the shit out of Bill, so he came down and told me to go for it. I did it and we meandered our way to the top of the route. There was a point during the last pitch were Bill was belaying me, dieing of dehydration, thinking to himself, Eric, just run it out and lets get the fuck out of here. He told me what he had been thinking when we were hiking down through hordes of mesquites and dry mouth so bad, I could barley swallow. Once we got to the truck in the dark of course, we headed to the Valley store and drank gallons of water, Gatorade, soda, you name it. Darlene, Peter and Korene were waiting at Darlene's house in El Portal to have a barbecue. We got there way after dark explaining our epic adventure. That was a typical day for Bill and I.
We did many routes together including, Reeds Pinnacle Direct, Royal Arches(simo climbing), Nutcracker, Braille Book, Bishop's Terrace, After Six,Positively 4th street, Beverly's Tower, Weat Thin, Catchy, Central Pillar of Frenzy, The Regular Route on Fairview Dome, Sail Away, Ace of Spades, Invisibility Lessons, Opes Crack, Sidewinder, Touch and Go, Loose Lady, Young Lust, Exorcist, Bird of Fire, Heart and Sole, Right Baskerville Crack, Solid Gold, Tossed Green, Tax Man, Caught Inside on A Big Set, Effigy Too, Party in the Desert, Clean and Jerk, and so many more. It has been many years since I have climbed with Bill, but I can remember every single route we had done together.
I had a good friend in high school, Demeat Fritz that I hadn't seen in a long while. He was now bouldering a ton and we reconnected. He really showed Bill and I what being strong really meant. We started going to a place in Ventura county called the Swimming Hole. We would go every weekend. We would mountain bike in, boulder all day, then bike back out in the middle of summer. We had a really great crew of guys that pushed each other. Demeat, Jeff Johnson, Bill, Darrin Stieff, Ray Ray, SpoMan, and myself. Bill and I were by far the weakest climbers, but tried to keep up the best we could. We did crazy shit with very small pads because this was back when crash pads were not being made yet. Lots of sprained ankles. Those were really good times.
I move to San Diego and sort of lost contact with Bill. We had met in J-Tree a couple times, but life stated to get pretty hectic for me. I think Bill moved back to Hawaii for a short bit, but ended up back in Redondo Beach. I managed to get a hold of him a couple months ago and it was really nice to hear his voice again. I feel really bad for not keeping in touch more often. He was by far the nicest guy in the world. He loved surfing, climbing, running, mountain biking, and reading. Bill was a super smart guy that always encouraged others to do their best. Bill will be missed.

Back on Track, Hopefully

I do believe I may be back on track to getting back into shape. It has been about two months since I started climbing again. I decided to just climb through the tendinitis and be super careful. I have been feeling better and better and more psyched than ever. This weekend, I wanted to get back up to the Matron area in Eldo. Last year Ryan Silvan and I started working on what was a project in the on line guide. We figured out the beta and began to put it together. Ryan was able to do it that day and called it "Fake Empire" and weighed it in at about V9/10. The next day, the area closed due to a Raptor Closer. Super fun compression prow/ arete. The boulder sort of sits up on a ledge and the start of the problem is down in a pit, very Huecoish. A hard heel hook is very necessary to hit a left hand slot that is super awkward. Heal hooks and toe hooks get you to the sloping lip that trends left and then you heel hook to pull yourself through a three boulder slot. I thought it was one of the coolest problems I have done in a while. I like problems that have really unique moves no matter how tall or small they may be. If the rock is good, then it's worth the effort.

Today, I went up to Clear Creek to finish off "Recession Proof". Some folks think that the problem is a "turd", but they should only climb the five star problems and leave the garbage to us weak asses. Why do some people climb something and then report that it was stupid or too small or something negative. I can understand if downgrading needs to happen if there is a general consensus. I typically look at a problem and decide weather or not I'm psyched to climb it or not. I tend to not get on something that doesn't look fun, duh. I think the problem is super cool. It lays down in the creek below the Primo Wall. The rock is super good with crimps, heel hooks, slopers, compression moves and big throws. Joe V. FA'd this fun problem last winter. I went down there early so that the rock was still cold. I warmed up and sent on my third try. Joe gave the problem 10 points, but some are saying it is more like 9. I think it is a hard 9 if that is the case. I have tried the problem two other days, three total. It had been pretty warm on my earlier attempts, but today, the temps were pretty nice. I guess if it were 50 degrees or so, it would be easier and worthy of a 9er. I guess I am just a bad judge of grades since I have only really started to try and climb harder again in the past couple of weeks. What ever the lame grade, the problem is really fun in my opinion which means nothing.

The addiction of Ink

Once you start, you just want more. Ink is a funny addiction because at the time when your in the chair, you think to yourself, no more! Once the pain has gone away and the scabbing is gone to clean, new skin, you forget. Some people stay in the chair for hours on end, while others only last minutes. I can do about 3 hours and that is my limit.
I had started my leg piece years ago and just went back under the needle once again. I saw this great piece where someones dog was standing in a pair of checkered vans, it was hilarious. I love my doggy and thought, why not. So I had a piece done of our Peanut. This way, I will always have her close to me. I love art and always appreciated how much work goes into tattoos. I find the medium committing to say the leased. One f-up and ... Anyway, the last time I was in the chair, I thought to myself, no more ink! The whole process gets kind of old when you get tore up, keep it clean so no infection, don't bump anything or ouchy, itch, itch some more, scabbing, and a month later, new skin with a super colorful piece of ink artwork. I like having my leg inked. I can ware pants and no ever knows I have a big leg piece. I really do think I am done though. I don't want to go any higher because the pain is at the point where I don't know if I could handle it. I love ink and probably always will, but I want to keep it somewhat tasteful. I dig some of the sleeves I have seen, but once you go there, that's it. People are funny about judging others they don't know. I think that tattoos have come a long way in the fact that it is seen way more like an art form than ever before. Some of the artists out there are some of the best artists I have ever seen. The artists that did most of my work, paint, draw, and do many other types of artwork other than tattooing. Joel Long at Boulder Ink did my Japanese artwork and Greg Fuller at Tribal Rites did Peanut. Both artists are super good at their particular styles, check em out:)

EZ's Wine and Shoe Review

Oh yeah, a couple glasses of wine and it's time for "EZ's Wine and Shoe Review".

My lovely wife picked up a bottle of Yellowtail Cab Sav from Costco for $5.00. Before I start the shoe review, I have to uncork and let the 2008 Cab Sav breath. It's fruity aroma has my taste buds salivating, so I will pour a glass and begin the review.

Evolv has upgraded the ever classic Talon for this Spring 2010. The old Talon was by far one of the best shoes Evolv has ever designed. The new Talon has kept most of the previous qualities and upgraded a few more. The upper synthetic is now perforated for better breathabiliity, Evolv has decided to incorporate their antimicrobial liner within the new Talon which makes the shoe even more comfortable out of the box than it was previously, the slingshot heal rand is a bit more aggressive than the previous model, and the Evolv logo is now molded into the slingshot rubber, cool. The heal has also been modified by incorporating a "Knuckle" type of patern for better heal hooking. The toe rand has been brought up even further on top of the toe box and slimmed down with thinner perforated rubber for better sensitivity. The one difference that most folks will notice first off, would have to be the bright Evolv green rubber in the arch of the shoe. Evolv has decided to change up the look of the shoe with neon green, non-high friction rubber in an area that just simply does not need to be high friction rubber. I think it is a super nice look that brings the new Talon to the forefront of the entire line. The performance of the new Talon surpasses the old model in sensitivity, looks and durability. The upper, as before, is soft right out of the box, but retains it's down turned profile even when "broken in". I do believe that Evolv has once again nailed it, as it does with every new or redesigned model it brings forth.

Well, my wine glass is empty and this shoe review has come to a close.

The Yellowtail is a wonderful, yet inexpensive red wine that doesnt break the bank. It is an Austrailian wine that delivers quality. Its undertones of Blackberry and Chocolate caress the palet and encourages adventure.

Untill next time, drink wine and all will be fine:)

I will have to leave this shoe review with happy thoughts and sweaty palms knowing that I will for sure be able to climb grades harder in the new and improved TALONS, sober of course:)

Joes Valley

Grand Junction Wine Country
Cory giving it on "Filla Void".

My wife, Danielle on "Pimpers Paradise".


Jacinda puttin in the effort on "Frosted Flakes".

Working moves on the "Hulk".

Cory on the "Rail".

Mrs. Peanut

D on Riverside Traverse

Cory doin the river crossing.

"High Tide" super classic V6.

This last weekend, Danielle, Peanut, her friend from school Jacinda, her husband Cory and their doggie Denali and I went to Joe's Valley. The girls went out on Wednesday and Cory and I met them out there on Friday. Jacinda's parents let us use their tent trailer which was really nice. The weather was pretty cold during the week, but was perfect Saturday and Sunday. It was sunny and warm, yet windy which kept it pretty cool. Cory and Jacinda have never been out to Joe's, so D and I gave them the classic tour. We mostly stayed in Right Fork. I just realized that Joe's Valley is the land of the V6's. Their are so many freakin classic V6's, it's insane. I always want to go to Joe's and crush something hard, but I always seem to get sucked into doing way too many classics. Some folks might get bummed, but I really enjoy all the super fun mid range climbs. This trip, Danielle really wanted to finish "Moby Dick", but she was already cashed before she even got on the problem. She said that on the next trip she will get on the problem the first day instead of the third. She will crush it for sure. Cory and Jacinda mostly rope climb, so bouldering is sort of new for them. They both did really well. There are a lot of high, funky top outs, but they both went for it. Jacinda crushed "Sling Blade", "Sweet Seam" at Black and Tan and did really well on "Frosted Flakes, Cory was able to finish "Frosted Flakes", "Pimper's Paridise", "Pimper's Paridise Right", "Cave Traverse" and did really well on "High Tide". Danielle, Cory and I did the ever classic traverse over the water on the riverside warm up boulder as well as the Angler. I didn't really push myself too much because of a cold and my tendinitis. My list of climbs include, Better Than Coffee- V4, Scoop able V0 highball, 3 Weeks- V9, The Cave Man- V4, Sling Blade- V4, Dem Bones- V3, Todd's Easy Arete- V2/3, Shorty Pie- V3, Filla Void- V6, The Prow- V7, Blue Eyed- V5, Classic Crack- V3, Pimper's Paridise- V5, Pimper's Paradise Low- V6, Buoux Crack- V2, Buoux Problem- V3, Tradesque- V4,Buoux V4 face, Frosted Flakes- V4/5, Low Tide- V6, The Angler- V2, and the riverside warm up boulder's water traverse- V2.
It was a super great weekend with no injuries, lots of classic climbs and good company.

Horsetooth Hang 2009

Horsetooth Res.
EZ workin the Evolv booth.

Evolv booth going off!
Team member, Byron Johnson.

Team member, Ben Schmitt.

Peacefull Warrior coach, Alec Salimao.

Team member, Sebastian.

Team member, Brian Rhodes.

Once again, the Horsetooth Hang has come and gone. The Hang is a climbing festival put on by Cameron Cross and the Northern Climbing Coalition every October. http://www.horsetoothhang.net/
Horsetooth Reservoir is a sandstone bouldering area that sits up in the foot hills just above Ft. Collins, CO. Horsetooth, also known as Rotary Park, has some of the most famous boulder problems in the U.S. Problems like, The Pinch Overhang, Left and Right Eliminator, and Meat Hook are just a few problems put up by John Gill, the god father of bouldering.
The weather was perfect for a good day of climbing outside. I went to the Hang to represent Evolv Sports http://www.evolvesports.com/by setting up a booth and running a shoe demo along other shoe companies like 5.10, La Sportiva, and Scarpa. Other vender's that supported the Hang were The Access Fund, New Belgium, Northern Climbing Coalition and many others. The turn out was really good with lots of folks curious about the new Evolv product line. There were lots of good questions about the shoes and I hope I was able to help climbers with their next climbing shoe decision. I always enjoy helping climbers with climbing shoes and Evolv is by far the best climbing shoe out there, which makes it pretty easy. We had lots of team members show up to participate in the event and to help out at the booth, Brian Rhodes, Ben Schmidt, Byron Johnson, Nick Duttle, Paul Desatco, Wolfgang, The Peacefull Warriors and myself to just name a few. Most of the Evolv team members are always up to give a helping hand as well as discuss the products they utilize as athletes. We thoroughly enjoy participating in events like the Horsetooth Hang and love being part of the community.
Thanks Cam for putting on yet another phenomenal event.

Shoe reviews

Here are a couple of links to great shoe reviews on the Evolv K-2's and the new Talon.
http://climbingshoetests.blogspot.com/search/label/Kaos%202
http://www.facebook.com/l/37c70;oldguydotcom.blogspot.com/2009/09/new-revamped-talons.html"