Saturday, January 30, 2010

Rocky Mountain Territory Events 2010

Here are some events coming up in the Rocky Mountain territory for 2010. I will post more as they come up:)

 Evolv Events 2010 Collegiate Climbing Series- Rocky Mountain Region 1) Comp schedule

Feb 20th UNM-Albuquerque
Feb 27th UCCS-Colorado Springs
March 6th Western-Gunnison
April 3rd Adams-Alamosa
April 17th CU-Boulder Regionals (Spot)
 Jan 23-Grand Junction Bouldering Comp.
 Jan 30- Sport Climbing Center Bouldering Comp (shoe demo), Co Springs. Jan 30- Spot Comp. 
Feb 6- Miramont Ft Collins Shoe Demo/ Duttle Clinic @ 9a.m.-12 p.m.
Feb 6- Lakewood Rec Center Comp.
Feb/ March ??The Rock Climbing Center, Co Springs- (shoe demo), GRAND OPENING.
Feb 25- Rockn and Jamin 1 Thorton, CO Comp.
Feb 27- School of Mines Climbing Comp- (shoe demo), Golden Co.
Feb 27- Colorado High School Nationals- Co Springs, The Rock.
May 28- 24 hours of Gunnison.
Weber State University –Ogden Utah Comp seriesFeb 6- Collegiate CompApril 9-10 Climbfest9th- Demo multi vender.10th- Comp/ slideshow. 
?? Hera Climb For Life
?? Horse tooth Hang

Sunday, January 17, 2010

New Problem at Carter Lake

My buddy Jim Fuller called me the other day to tell me about a new problem that he and Scott Blunk had just put up on the Kahuna Boulder at Carter Lake. He told me that it was super tall and that it had a horrible landing. I guess they set up a top rope and rapped down to clean holds and work out the upper moves. Jim was able to boulder it and called it "In A Pickle" V7. The line is to the left of the "Big Pickle" and starts on a left hand shallow pocket and a side pull crimp for the right hand about chest high.  A big foot allows you to throw right hand up to a descent pinch. The problem works it's way up the faint seam trending right to a big angled slot. The feet are small and most of the holds are small crimps besides the large slot. The problem tops out on ok holds that keeps it pretty sustained.
I decided it sounded intriguing enough to bring a rope and some gear. Anson, Danielle and I rolled to Carter meeting Jim there for beta. Once Anson and I saw the problem, we decided to just  move some rocks to make the landing a bit flatter. I think we had three regular crash pads and Jim's Mondo. Jim sprayed me down and I gave it a whirl. I flashed it, but it was pretty committing and scary, but super fun! Anson was a bit hung over and wasn't in the highball mood. After doing the stand, I gave the sit a go. A really good left hand crimp in the alcove and small right crimp with a super good right heal hook allowed me to go up right hand to the two finger pocket and punched left hand to a small dimple on the upper corner, once there, I reached over to the good pinch right hand and then I was in the stand up problem. I am guessing the sit moves are around V4-V5 and then you end up in the regular problem which I am guess total grade maybe hard V7 to soft V8. I called the sit, "Tickle My Pickle". Both problems are really good and committing which I think are great additions to  Carter Lake.
Bring pads and balls, your going to need them all.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Winter

Well, this winter has been interesting to say the leased. I have taken on the sales rep position for Evolv and am setting at the Spot Bouldering Gym. I quit my full time job and and am making things work with two fun jobs.
Climbing has come to almost a complete stop because of Colorado's winter this year. We get dumped on in October and the ground has had snow on it ever since. Not only has it been snowy, but it has been damn cold as well. This week is the first week in a long while that is has been warmer than 30 degrees. Plastic climbing is the way of things until I can get out and get on rock.
Wade, Josh Mitchell and I tried to climb on "Burn Out", but got chased out by rangers. I had no idea that Walker Ranch is closed to off trail traffic. Apparently, it has been closed for the last 5 years and they are talking about shutting it down to all trail and off trail traffic. We decided to go to the Hobo cave at Flag. I have never been there and it was nice outside so I decided what the hell. It was real rock, kind of. I wasn't all that impressed, really. I should have just climbed on plastic and got the work out in.
Hopefully the weather stays nice and I can get out at leased once this next month.