Sunday, January 17, 2010

New Problem at Carter Lake

My buddy Jim Fuller called me the other day to tell me about a new problem that he and Scott Blunk had just put up on the Kahuna Boulder at Carter Lake. He told me that it was super tall and that it had a horrible landing. I guess they set up a top rope and rapped down to clean holds and work out the upper moves. Jim was able to boulder it and called it "In A Pickle" V7. The line is to the left of the "Big Pickle" and starts on a left hand shallow pocket and a side pull crimp for the right hand about chest high.  A big foot allows you to throw right hand up to a descent pinch. The problem works it's way up the faint seam trending right to a big angled slot. The feet are small and most of the holds are small crimps besides the large slot. The problem tops out on ok holds that keeps it pretty sustained.
I decided it sounded intriguing enough to bring a rope and some gear. Anson, Danielle and I rolled to Carter meeting Jim there for beta. Once Anson and I saw the problem, we decided to just  move some rocks to make the landing a bit flatter. I think we had three regular crash pads and Jim's Mondo. Jim sprayed me down and I gave it a whirl. I flashed it, but it was pretty committing and scary, but super fun! Anson was a bit hung over and wasn't in the highball mood. After doing the stand, I gave the sit a go. A really good left hand crimp in the alcove and small right crimp with a super good right heal hook allowed me to go up right hand to the two finger pocket and punched left hand to a small dimple on the upper corner, once there, I reached over to the good pinch right hand and then I was in the stand up problem. I am guessing the sit moves are around V4-V5 and then you end up in the regular problem which I am guess total grade maybe hard V7 to soft V8. I called the sit, "Tickle My Pickle". Both problems are really good and committing which I think are great additions to  Carter Lake.
Bring pads and balls, your going to need them all.

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